Vineyard Visit – Oekologischer Land- und Weinbau Kraemer – Part I

For a quick trip in our region we chose to visit Stephan and Simone Kraemer in Auerhofen. We came of course because of Stephan’s wine and Simone’s cooking, but in the end we left deeply touched by their hospitality! On top of that, our son already misses their dog, their cats and of course all the toy tractors.

Our visit started with an impromptu wine tasting. First off, we tried the 2019 Riesling Silex which I probably would have overlooked, because of his excellent Silvaners. Yet, it is a very welcome change from your standard austere Riesling. Made in the typical Kraemer style as a combination of directly pressed and mash-fermented grapes as well as a part intercellular fermentation. The wine delivers a broad flavour spectrum while staying very mineral at the same time. You get a pronounced acidic backbone with beautifully integrated phenols. The wine shows that in the right hands and with the right amount, skin contact can also work with a Riesling.

Under Flor

Next we tried the Silvaner Reserve Sous Voile 2020 which my wife enjoyed especially. As Stephan’s puts it, this was his go at destroying a Silvaner. Yet, because this wine has seen ‘it all’, it probably will last forever. Even though the effects of the ‘Flor’ in the barrel was visible and noticeable, the wine still has some freshness to it. You taste phenols, which are accompanied by some nutty flavours. The bottle was already opened for some time and as with all Kraemer wines, it greatly benefited from air contact.

Bubbles and an older vintage

We also opened a bottle of Laherte Feres Rosé de Meunier I brought as a gift and tried Stephan’s Silvaner Steillage Muschelkalk 2017. The first was a tasty rosé champagne with just the right amount of tannins. The latter showed how Stephan’s other vineyard in Tauberzell can age. The Silvaner Muschelkalk also has an excellent combination of pronounced acidity with chalky minerality. There are noticeable phenols, but they already became beautifully integrated. The taste is slightly broader than with grapes from Stephan’s vineyards in Roettingen.